The six-century old Wongaksa Pagoda lay in ruins until Westerners in Seoul began to take an interest in it. One of the most interesting but least known historic sites in Seoul is Tapgol Park (탑골공원), also known as Pagoda Park.
The onset of night turned the busy streets of Seoul into dusky lanes frequented by veiled women, daring foreigners, sinister...
Words by Robert Neff, Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection As the primary way of accessing Seoul during the early modern period, the Han River offered equal shares of opportunities and hazards. During the late Joseon period, the Han River did not divide Seoul—in fact it wasn’t even part of...
Words by Robert Neff With the horrible destruction of the Korean War came abject poverty. People did whatever they could...
Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection The anti-Western sentiment pervasive in Pyongyang today has a long history, as historian...
Words by Todd Bruns Where to walk? The walking trails in Seoul’s Namsan and Cheonggyecheon are the obvious spots, but plenty of options abound. Seoul delivers wide sidewalks, interesting alleys, and green space. Plus, Family Mart is always around the corner offering hand warmers, coffee, or tall boys of Hite...
Words BY Robert Neff Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection A skirmish between Japanese and Russian warships in February...
Words and shots by Judith Ann Clancy The inexpensive alternative sport rounds up all types for a fast-paced and friendly...
Words by Darrell Slater and Andrew Farrell For sports fans, there are few better things to look forward to in Korea once the dreary winter months are over than the start of baseball season. It might surprise many readers to learn that one of America’s favorite pastimes is also Korea’s preferred...
Words by Robert Neff In this humorous anecdote from the turn of the 20th century, an American diplomat and a mob...