The six-century old Wongaksa Pagoda lay in ruins until Westerners in Seoul began to take an interest in it. One of the most interesting but least known historic sites in Seoul is Tapgol Park (탑골공원), also known as Pagoda Park.
The onset of night turned the busy streets of Seoul into dusky lanes frequented by veiled women, daring foreigners, sinister...
Words by Robert Neff, Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection As the primary way of accessing Seoul during the early modern period, the Han River offered equal shares of opportunities and hazards. During the late Joseon period, the Han River did not divide Seoul—in fact it wasn’t even part of...
Words by Robert Neff With the horrible destruction of the Korean War came abject poverty. People did whatever they could...
Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection The anti-Western sentiment pervasive in Pyongyang today has a long history, as historian...
Words BY Robert Neff Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection A skirmish between Japanese and Russian warships in February of 1904 was the first clash of the Russo-Japanese war, a conflict whose outcome would determine the fate of Korea. Just before noon on February 9th, 1904, two Russian warships,...
Words and shots by Judith Ann Clancy The inexpensive alternative sport rounds up all types for a fast-paced and friendly...
Words by Robert Neff In this humorous anecdote from the turn of the 20th century, an American diplomat and a mob...
Retired Article: Info from 2012 Words by Mary Chavez Byrns In the mood for Italian, French or Japanese? We’re not talking about dinner, but rather food for your aesthetic tastebuds. How about a language class in Spanish, an Italian film or opera or a day of wrestling and archery at...
Words by Robert Neff Photos from the collection of Robert Neff In the 1890s there was a gold rush in...