Words by Jason Strother
There are two dishes that are best served cold: One is revenge and the other is Naengmyeon.
But while the former could land you in jail, the latter will just set you back several bucks. Naengmyeon is a Korean style of noodles submerged in an icy broth.
There’s also bibim, or mixed, Naengmyeon, which substitutes a dollop of red pepper sauce for broth. There are two main variations on the noodles. Pyongyang-style Naengmyeon is made from buckwheat, while Hamheung-style is made from potato or sweet potato starch.
Where To Eat Naengmyeon In Seoul
Ojang-dong Hamheung Naengmyeon 오장동함흥냉면
Drop in for a hearty bowl of Hamheung-style noodles. It’s my rule of thumb that the more old people you see in a restaurant, the better the Naengmyeon. This place is no exception. The Yuksu, meat broth tea, is also very nice here. The difference between a mediocre Nyaengmyeon and a great Nyaengmyeon lies in the Yuksu.
Address: 108 Mareunnae-ro, Jung District, Seoul
Eulmildae 마포 을밀대
The night I dropped by here there were a surprisingly large number of young people digging into their bowls of Naengmyeon. Fortunately, I brought along my friend’s 70-year old mother for the senior citizen perspective. Mamma Kim liked the extra thick Pyongyang-style noodles.
The broth is a bit bland, but presumably healthy thanks to its mixture of ten vegetables and won’t leave you feeling like you just drank a steak. This lets you get creative with the condiments. I added globs of spicy mustard, Mamma Kim added sugar. To each their own.
Address: 24 Sungmun-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Pyeongnaeok 평래옥
If you come here during lunch or dinner time, you can expect to stand in line outside for up to 10 minutes like I did. For three generations this place has served Pyongyang-style Naengmyeon since 1950 after its originators fled to Seoul from North Korea.
The entire menu here in fact features cuisine from above the 38th parallel. But what makes this restaurant stand out is actually their chicken, which is served as a refillable side dish.
Address: 21-1 Mareunnae-ro, Jung District, Seoul
Jingogae 진고개
If you find yourself in the Chungmuro area and in the need for Naengmyeon, you should go straight for Jin Go Gae.
According to the placemats, it’s been around since 1963 and I doubt very much has changed, including the interior, since then. But forget your scissors: you’ll need a katana to slice through these noodles. That’s because they’re made from a combination of buckwheat and potato starch, giving them an extra chewy texture. And a generous portion of diced pear gives the broth a refreshingly sweet taste.
Address: Seoul, Jung District, Chungmu-ro, 19-1 1층
Uraeok 우래옥
This Pyongyang-style Naengmyeon would make Kim Jong-il consider defecting. The Jang family has run Uraeok since the late 1940s and is perhaps the granddaddy of all Naengmyeon restaurants in Seoul.
It’s no coincidence that places that double as barbecue houses tend to serve the best Naengmyeon. The savory broth, a mouthwatering cut of meat and the chewy buckwheat noodles all add up to make this a true gustatory delight.
Address: 62-29 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jung District, Seoul
