Words by Ciaran Hickey
I have to admit it, I never liked the look of jajangmyeon. But then again, I was only coming across it on the golf course where it is one of the choices at the half-way snack bar.This probably had something to do with its color and the overuse of cornstarch. Of course, once I had the authentic version, I understood why it’s one of the most, if not the most, popular dish in Korea.
What Is Jajangmyeon
Jajangmyeon is noodles that has a sauce of black bean paste and meat, mostly pork, and vegetables. Despite being one of the unofficial symbols of Korean cuisine and the single most-ordered take-out food in the country, it is in fact an import, brought across from China over 100 years ago and now adjusted to Korean tastes.
Let’s start with the noodles, known as Sutamyeon (수타면). They are hand-made with regular flour (rather than potato starch like their cousins in japchae) and then quickly blanched in boiling water and set aside for the final preparation.
The Jajangmyeon sauce is made by cooking the vegetables and pork in a pan and then adding the black bean sauce. Next, stock is added to cut the saltiness, and it is finally thickened by adding a little cornstarch, a typical Chinese touch.
Jajangmyeon’s real claim to fame is the role it plays on Black Day, which takes place on April 14th. On this day, the single souls who missed out on the chocolate and gift-giving on Valentine’s Day and White Day get to drown their sorrows with other singletons and eat Jajangmyeon, the black color representing the gloom of the situation.
Where To Eat The Best Jajangmyeon In Seoul
Bokseonggak 복성각
This restaurant is especially popular with young people. Come here to taste unusual Jajangmyeon dishes with colorful sauces in yellow or red and a variety featuring flat noodles.
Address: 24 Myeongmul 1-gil, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
Hyeonraejang 현래장
If you want to see how Jajangmyeon noodles are made, this is the place. They’ve been hand-crafting pasta for 60 years, and the chef has appeared on numerous TV shows as a master of the art. Visitors can see him tossing the dough as he prepares your dish.
Address: 140 Mapo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Gonghwachun 공화춘
Opened in 1905, Gonghwachun was the first Chinese restaurant in Korea and not so coincidentally the place where Jajangmyeon was first served here.
Address: 43 Chinatown-ro, Jung-gu, Incheon