Jumunjin, Gangwon: Raw Fish and Relaxation

Words and shots by Conor O’Reilly

In northern Gangneung, the largest city on Gangwon Province’s famous East Sea coast, is one of the most popular summer locations in South Korea. It is an area often unexplored by expats but is highly regarded by many Koreans. The furthermost town in this area, Jumunjin is a place where the sand is white and the water clearer than any cliché could ever describe. The town is also one of the best places to experience a working fishing port that doubles as one of the best dining spots in the province.

Tranquility on the Sand
Outside of the busiest month of the year, Jumunjin Beach is peaceful and accessible, and the slides, banana boats and jet-skis of the peak season are nowhere to be seen. It’s possible to find a table in many of the fantastic restaurants and, if you book a few days in advance, a room in a comfortable hotel. It is then that you can really enjoy the long beach and busy seaside town nearby.
Jumunjin Beach is generally a little bit quieter than the more popular Gyeongpo Beach further south. Located about twenty-five kilometers north of downtown Gangneung with regular public transport connections, it’s less densely developed than other beaches in this area. During the high season, activities abound while the low season offers a clean and tranquil shore with a few weekend visitors.
The water here, while a little cold at times, is pristine. The beach backs onto pine woodland that is perfect for escaping from the sun or for having a relaxing picnic in between swims. Needless to say, there’s an ample supply of restaurants, many of which specialize in fresh fish, close to the beach if a picnic is beyond your level of preparation.

Fish on the Plate
While on the East Sea, it’s essential that you visit one of the ports to experience and taste the local delicacy, hoe (회, pronounced “hway”). This familiar dish of finely sliced raw fish is served with either spicy red pepper sauce or increasingly wasabi and soy sauce. For many Koreans, Jumunjin is an excellent place to sample and appreciate this special meal.  Unlike most other ports, everything you need is within a short walking distance in a town centered on the port.
Once in town, you have a number of dining options. First, you can buy your fish in the market. This is an experience in itself. Amongst the stalls selling all kinds of fish, vendors will offer you baskets with different fish, all still alive and flopping. Generally speaking, the prices they offer are reasonable, though you can try to bargain for a better price. Once you make your purchase, you will be directed to another stall where your fish will be prepared properly, allowing you to take it to your hotel or back to the beach for a picnic under the trees.
If you would prefer to avoid the hustle and bustle of buying in the market, cross the street and you will see the 주문진 회 센터 (Jumunjin Raw Fish Center) which is a large and open hall packed with small restaurants battling it out to provide you with a full-course meal with a platter of raw fish as its centerpiece. The advantage to this is that you will get plenty of interesting side dishes, rice, and of course after your meal a spicy and savory soup made with the bones of the fish called maeuntang (매운탕). Each restaurant is named after a region in Korea, so you can choose where you want to eat according to where you live.

Fishing boats in the harbor
The town itself is well-worth exploring as Jumunjin is small but hectic in its own lazy way. Be sure to look around the port area. Outside the covered area and below the car park is a bustling market that sells fish fresh from the boats. During the summer months, the port is dominated by Jumunjin’s squid fleet. The ships will unload massive quantities of squid, which are promptly auctioned off to buyers recognised by their yellow caps.
The port is an exceptional source of fresh fish, crabs and shellfish, much of which is easily cooked. It can be an adventure in itself to just inspect the contents of the many blue basins and tanks around the market and port. The best time to experience the port at its most active is in the morning. This way you catch the boats coming in and avoid the large numbers of tour buses that arrive throughout the day.

Travelers on the road
For a comfortable place to stay, try the Jumunjin Resort Hotel which is right on the beach and serves breakfast. All rooms have a small kitchen and the smallest rooms sleep up to four people. Visit jumunjinresort.com for details. Regular buses leave from all major cities to Gangeung, and from Seoul you can also take the train from Cheongnyangni Station. Once in Gangneung, take bus number 10 or 11 into Jumunjin.

Daytripper’s Delight
If the beach loses its allure and your gaze starts drifting toward the mountains in the background, take a day excursion to Sogeum River, part of Odaesan National Park. The charming scenery of Sogeum River was recognized in 1979, when it was officially designated as “Place of Scenic Beauty No. 1.”
It doesn’t take long to realize why this is the case. The trail runs along the banks of the Sogeum River, which cuts a magnificent and scenic gorge through the mountain, passing by large boulders, Buddhist temples and waterfalls. Hiking the full course can take the whole day, or you can take your time and wander along the 4km stretch of the valley, taking time to rest in the shade or with your feet deep in the cool mountain stream.
To get to Sogeumgang, take bus number 303 from Gangneung Bus Terminal, or from Juminjin take bus number 300 to Yeongok, then transfer to bus number 303.

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